Where The Future Meets the Past
No Factory. No Cookie Cutter Designs. Every Job is a Custom, One of a Kind Build
This page is intended as a guide to explaining all the steps to get your maggies modded. In short it goes like this…
Decide what model you want and acquire it if you do not already own speakers, and if unsure, contact me to discuss it
Contact me to get on my work list. I generally work 2 periods in the year, spring and fall. You will eventually be assigned a work week, or at least given a rough estimate when work will begin.
As the work week nears, we will discuss what you want in terms of wood and design, you will need to submit your parts deposit, and I will explain how and when to ship to me.
The work commences. If any aberrations are detected (delam problems etc…) you will be informed about them and what is required to rectify them. Most can and will be fixed by me.
The speaker is packed for it’s trip home, final payment is sent, and off they go. All of this is followed by years of unbridled happiness on your part.
I am now taking names for the SPRING of 2024
All work for 2023 has ended.
The list is growing so email if interested. Thank you.
Disclaimer
I will no longer mod any 3 series maggie, any 2 series with a ribbon tweeter, any 20 series maggie or any tympani series maggie.
Neither I nor you can mod any new production maggie. None of them. This is apparently the way Magnepan wants it.
I will mod pre QR foil models IF you are sure major delam or tweeter oxidation issues are not present. Please visit the choosing a speaker page for more info.
I will fix delam if it is minor and you were unaware of it. I will not engage in massive repairs or full scale rebuilds. Contact Magnepan for that work.
DIY
DIY info can be found by clicking here.
NEWSFLASH
After years of putting up with Duelund resistors and their terrible customer care (Brand new ones arrive already broken… (and they do) tough crap… they won’t refund or replace them) I finally had enough and found my holy grail. They are made by Path Audio of Poland and they are even better than the Duelunds, but that is only part of the exciting news. I am good friends with the owner of Jupiter Condenser and he recently perfected his copy of the famous Western Electric wire so I had him send me some, just to see if it made any difference. Good Lord…. it blew the doors down. The change at first appears somewhat subtle, but when you realize the magnitude of what you now hear, even at lower volumes, you can only sit there stunned.
Rather than say it got better… it became organically alive. It became sit there and shake your head constantly in disbelief for hours, and NEVER tire of it. It is so extraordinary that even after a few weeks now of acclimating to it, the thrill has not gone. (And vinyl… My God…) I have also come to realize that this change also killed the final hurdle magnepans had - their inability to play enjoyably at low volume. It was a given that they need to be “lit up” to be properly experienced. No more. I still urge you to use the most powerful amp you can, because it makes detail and not volume, however the resolution now, the “impression”, the “air”, presence and tonality are palpable even at low volumes. This simply did not exist before… well, not like this. The best part is, practically any other audio company would double the price if they doubled performance. As it happens the Path resistors are only a few bucks more each and the wire costs the same as what I had been using…. so that’s all the price went up, and not a penny more. Your worry is your wife may never see you again…
And if you are a past customer, you as well can be upgraded with a kit but some of the work will be on you. Email me for details.
How to get the work done
If you are interested in having me work on your maggies you must first email me to secure a place in my work queue. Why do I have a work queue? First, the mod has proven to be extremely popular and desirable because it is everything I say it is. Second, I am one man and I have no desire to expand. To me this is art and you should get the artist when you pay for art, not his apprentice. Because of these things it takes time for me to get to everyone so the queue provides order. It is free to join it and free to leave it, I just ask you join only if genuinely interested. To join requires an email stating your intent along with your name, ship to address, phone and model to be modded. No money is required at this time. This is not about instant gratification. If that’s what you seek you came to the wrong place.
When I am working it's essentially a 7 day a week job, so I have two work "seasons" per year. The first "spring" session starts in late March or thereabouts (depends how bad wnter was and if it wants to quit) and runs to June and the "fall" session starts around Labor Day and may run into early November. (I spend the remaining time each year prostrate on a chaise having damp linens applied to my forehead...) Wait time is not predictable. I know it’s human nature to want something “now” when they get the itch but all I can say is be patient. It is clear how much this mod is valued and I will make the time you spent waiting worth it when I get to you. Depending when you contact me I may have an opening and will wish to slot you immediately, but in most cases a wait of a few months is typical.
Be aware that opt outs do happen and even if you were told I can't do you for 6 months events may change and you could suddenly find yourself getting done the following week instead. This happens due to the time involved, as life interrupts and peoples schedules alter and they ask me to move them about which constantly creates openings. So essentially if I tell you 6 months that is the longest it will take, and once on the list, like an astronaut, you may find yourself called unexpectedly at any moment. (If you can't take such an opening that is fine, you stay where scheduled and I'll drop to the next person in line) If you have questions feel free to write any time.
Costs
Understand that the mod cost represents the complete cost of modding a pair of magnepan speakers, which will arrive back needing only quick assembly, and which can be played immediately. Only wood, shipping charges and any extra design work is not included in the base price.
MMG - $2,780 MG-12 - $2,850 1.6 - $2,890 2.7 - $3,150
Wood
First off, it must be remembered that like any commodity the price of wood can fluctuate a lot, and so can the availability of various species. So don't assume anything, please inquire if you have something particular in mind. Since the prices fluctuate I have given up trying to list by species so if you have something in mind the best course is to inquire with me. Note also this cost is for real, solid wood. No veneer or ply is used anywhere in the construction of these frames. They are made entirely from solid hardwoods.
I stopped taking pics some time ago for two reasons. First, I have yet to see a picture do the real wood justice. Second, it creates a condition where people see a beautiful pair and then email me the image and say “I want that” not realizing that “that” is impossible. I go to great trouble to find the best and most unusual and or figured things I can. As a result the wood I choose is so unique it can't be duplicated. I will discuss with you what you like and want, will make suggestions and we'll get it sorted. It especially helps if you can trust me to go on my own if I come across something so unexpected and nice it would be foolish to pass it up.
The table below is now categorized for quality, not type. Low represents the cheapest species, and or the ones least figured of pricier woods (which are sometimes sold off at lower prices) It includes things like Ash, Oak, and lower grades of Walnut Maple and Cherry. Medium includes better examples of Walnut, Cherry and Maple as well as figured less common species such as Sassafras, QS Sycamore or Elm. It can also include some of the lower priced tropicals like Sapele. High is always the best and most highly figured woods, and most tropicals. Bear in mind also they price wood according to it’s value - If it is a normally low priced wood but some boards have very special figure, they will be priced higher. God knows the value of his goods… and so does the lumber man. My usual advice is you and I will only do this once, so spend the extra to get something you'll cherish forever. (that usually means spending $50-$100 more) Do that and you’ll own something you'll look at every day for the rest of your life with great joy, and the extra cost will be long forgotten.
I will not use some woods for sensitivity reasons such as Mahogany and Padauk. If you ask for a species and it's one I won't use I'll let you know. I'd like to live to see my grandkids.
A Rough Guide to Wood Prices
Frame Styles
The images to the right represents some of the more common frame styles however I can and have done a wide variety of things. That said I will not do anything if I feel it will effect the sound quality. That comes first. Generally speaking, the speakers wind up slightly smaller in the wooden frames than they were in the MDF, and the footprint is essentially the same. Wood all comes in varying thickness and as long as it falls into acceptable parameters I don’t resize it, so your finished frames will be anywhere from never less than 3/4” thick to a max of 1 1/8th” 7/8ths to 1” is most typical.
Standard is a plain frame. In the past I often used mitered corners but no longer do as they can open in time due to the weather extremes they may be exposed to. All work is now straight butt joints.
Pegs or “pinning” are square, hand cut pins (of a contrasting color) inset into the frames and which protrude slightly as if the joint was an actual mortise and tennon. cost $75 (I do not use actual mortise and tennon joints because they would loosen in time due to the excessive vibration)
Edge Trim can either be narrow or wide. It's base cost is $50 plus whatever the contrasting wood chosen costs. It can also be inset instead of on the edge. (meaning down the middle of the side)
Lattice adds stringers and is shown in the bottom picture. What is shown is only one possible option. The price is $50 for the first "string" and $20 for each additional one and that price is for BOTH speakers. The one shown would add a cost of $90 ( $50 for the main string plus an extra $40 for the top and bottom). If you are concerned lattice would effect the sound negatively it does not, and in fact it may bring positive attributes in refraction. Latticed models often seem to sound better…
Unique Designs. I am sometimes asked to do something unusual and I am usually game so long as I am confident the changes will have no ill effect on the playback performance of the frames. In that light do not ask me to make any part of the frame wider or narrower than I do, because the parameters I use have been shown to be optimal for performance and strength. By the same token I will not use wood beyond or below a certain thickness.
If you wish to pursue a type of style just let me know. Pictured below is a pair of MMG’s I did in an Arts & Crafts Mission style, that had protruding tennons as well as pegs, lattice, an arched top and much more.
the Crossover & Crossover upgrades for past customers
No thinking or worry is involved here. The mod price includes the best parts, so whatever the current “best” is, you get that… and the current best is not to be believed. I have recently upgraded the mod to a level even I did not think possible.
However I do no longer make the boxes fancy like pictured at left. That is because time has shown the parts do keep improving and so upgrading in the future is a real possibility, so I had to go with a more uniform design that customers could also access. I now use a style of box much like the famous Greene & Greene art deco boxes, but the simple removal of 2 screws gets you inside. Despite the uniformity, they are still unique and all attractive.
If you are an older customer and are interested in upgrading your boxes contact me. Prices are as follows below.
Bear in mind that to upgrade completely to my current production spec requires you to solder new wires to your drivers. (Because shipping the frames to me (and back) is not cost effective and it gives the shippers 2 more chances to destroy them) If you can solder the work is not difficult and I am always here if you need help or a question answered.
The complete wire kit includes - 6 cut, stripped and tinned Jupiter wires, each 7" long, 2 Path Audio resistors, value 1R8, Wire to aid installation of resistors, Wire to replace the red + lead in each box, A small coil of Cardas solder and a tin of flux
Crossover upgrades and costs
Ship boxes to me to have caps upgraded - $900 which includes return shipping
Ship boxes to me to have caps and resistor upgraded - $980 which includes return shipping. With wire kit $1,050
If you just wish to get the wire kit, the prices are (and they include shipping)
12 gauge Jupiter wire set plus Path resistors and complete kit - $150
Above kit without resistors - $70
It should be noted that even thought this work is sold as "finished" stands and a complete speaker system, Magnestand frames require some assembly on the part of the new owner as it is not possible to ship them assembled. Detailed instructions to do this are included and the process requires nothing special and can be accomplished in as little as 15 minutes with basic tools. Magnestand is not responsible for any damage to persons or property incurred by using or assembling our products.
Since our process is a contractual obligation which permanently alters the speakers we cannot "undo" them for any reason. Owing to that and the high cost of shipping all sales are considered final. If the unbelievable happens and you are unsatisfied with the sound, I will work with you and any future buyer for your speakers as if they were the original customer. (This has not yet happened)
I cannot guarantee arrival condition. The speakers and XO boxes are shipped back insured but shippers can be so reckless I cannot vouch for the arrival condition of anything. I use proven methods and use the factory Magnepan boxes however if an item suffers damage in transit I will work with you to resolve any claim and to repair the damage, however we know how shippers are, they don't like making restitution. I will come down to both of us doing what we can to make it right. You will not be left in the lerch.
If no shipping damage exists but there is a problem with the crossover when it arrives, I will replace or fix the problem at my cost. I consider the XO design my "intellectual property" and warranty it and its' parts for 1 year. (Unless damage was clearly caused by abuse, misuse or natural causes - IE lightning or other electrical surges)
Should the XO go bad after the warranty period we will do the repairs for as little as possible and the customer will incur the shipping and parts charges as well. However, if you open the XO box or disturb it's contents without our approval your warranty will be immediately voided, so do not do it. There is nothing worth seeing inside so if it stops working contact us first.
Whether you did or did not have any wire repair work done by us, Magnestand does NOT warranty any future wire delamination.
In other words it is possible you could pay us to fix loose wires, and within a week of getting your speakers a wire is loose and buzzing
You may require no service, and a month after getting them back they start to delam. That’s just how it goes with these things
This is a defect inherent to the parent company Magnepan, and we cannot be held accountable to delamination caused by their methods. We have a process we believe can check the problem, we do everything we can to stop it, but we cannot guarantee it. We are also not liable for tweeter wires which can break at any time due to age corrosion.
Since our modification removes the fuses, there is the possibility that permanent fatal damage can be done to the tweeters by over driving the speakers with an under powered amplifier. We are not liable to repair or replace any damage should you melt something due to exuberant indiscretion. Generally speaking, the more (good) power you have, the safer you are. You will find however the speakers play louder with less power than they did before modification. We will be happy to discuss your system with you before purchase as well.
Since many of the parts used contain precious metals their prices can fluctuate wildly. We reserve the right to alter pricing to meet these changes and they may not yet be reflected on the website pricing.
Delam - Understanding it and what I will and will not do
In short I do not either enjoy fixing this problem, nor is it a service I offer. I prefer people send me speakers in good condition.
That said I understand it can be hard to know if they are in good condition or not. I know for a fact they could have 70% of their wires hanging off and still play well enough that you would suspect nothing. So if you send me speakers that wind up needing repair, I will do it, unless they are really far gone. But if you know you have an issue before hand, I ask you please deal with it beforehand - either have Magnepan rebuild them, or buy another pair.
The cost to fix varies, depending on how bad it is and how much needs doing. When the wires go often the bracing bars fall off as well for example. Generally speaking light work costs about $50, a medium amount is closer to $100 and unless it’s awful it won’t go over $200 because if it’s that bad I’m not doing it.
Delam Q & A
Q: Will mine delam?
A: Possibly, but not certainly. This depends mostly on where you live and secondly how you treat them. Cold humid dampness kills them and if sea air plays any part in it then it's 10 times as bad. So the worst areas are cold climates near the ocean. Storage in the box is also very bad for them. You put them in their box in a closet for 3 years… they are coming out delaminating.
Q: Does any model have a higher incidence of failure?
A: No, other than original models from the 70's are most suspect simply because they are oldest. (in fact they may be on their second or third delam already, having been rebuilt)
Q: How long does it take to happen?
A: That's impossible to be exact about. Some get a slow death, going green and getting tacky but never quite reaching a state where the wires come off (because they are so tacky) while others literally spill their guts in a year or two once it starts. Also some just go at the ends (banana peel) and others just come undone in the middle… and some want it all. You can also expect bracing bar failure to some degree as well because they are held on with the same adhesive. If they age by turning red however they will not delam but you can expect tweeter failure at some point.
Q: Will they always make noise as a sign?
A: No, this is a fallacy. In fact banana peel is completely silent because the wires are no longer anywhere near the mylar. So they can be going very badly and it won’t make a sound. If you get a buzzing, that is from mid panel delam and that happens because both ends are still held to the mylar but some section is loose… and when the mylar vibrates the wire acts like a kazoo. Banana peel is visible thru the fabric.
Q: Is there a cause?
A: The 3M product does not hold the wires down, it just keeps them in place long enough for the coat of milloxane, essentially a pvc type glue, to cure and form a "second skin" over the wires. This product can and will over time begin to rot. While direct sunlight is bad for milloxane, humidity is the real problem with cold humid air being worse and cold salt air being the real killer. Every pair I have come across that spent time within 20 miles of a northern ocean delaminated, and they do so in a quicker period of time. Units that stay in dry areas, especially the midwest to the southwest, tend to not delaminate but they can dry rot. Consistently warm and humid areas like Florida seem the ideal location. They don't go red but never quite delam either, but there is no sure thing. It can and does happen everywhere.
Q: What happens?
A: One of 2 things. Those that delam turn greenish. Apparently long term exposure to cold moisture makes milloxane get funky and break down. Over time that greening will get tacky, then sticky, then gummy, then really shot. At any point from the sticky period on the wires may start coming off. The other type of failure happens in warmer dry areas where the milloxane will actually oxidize instead and turn a shade of amber/orange/red, and they will get a very brittle feel about them. I have only seen one case where they oxidized so bad the wires were falling off, generally they stay put. However the real issue is tweeter wire failure which is not only common, it should be expected to happen eventually. (the old thin round wire is most susceptible, but I have seen one case of this taking out QR foil as well) Normal, unmolested play usually will extend their lives, but once you upgrade them and make them play at a higher level it tends to force the issue and the already weakened wire will break. When this happens they will break still stuck on and you can't even see where the problem is because the gap is so fine. In fact checking for continuity with a tester does not always work because the wire may be close enough to allow continuity voltage but amp current can’t pass this gap. If you suspect it do not play them, it can short your amp. If broken you will then have to order a repair kit from Magnepan. This is work I do not do.
Q: They wear in 2 different ways?
A: Yes. Those that turn green suffer mid/bass delamination (the tweeter wire can delam but it’s more rare and they don't oxidize and fail this way) and those that turn red don't suffer from delam but the tweeters will dry rot and fail at some point. (what's the quote, can't win for losing?) I have also seen speakers in both conditions, with tops that are red and dry and bottoms that are green and gummy. (I call this stoplight syndrome) I suspect the cause of this is them being kept in a basement and/or on a cement floor where the tops are up in the drier, warmer air in the room and the bottoms are near the constantly cold, damp floor. Thankfully this is very rare.
Q: What's the best defense?
A: Keep them warm, out of direct sun and avoid moisture extremes. (both high and low) Packing them away in the box in a closet is also sure death. If you must store them, leave them open with air able to get at both sides. (if they lean against a wall stick a shim between them to keep them apart slightly)
Q: Will I know I have wires coming off? Will I hear it?
A: In virtually ALL cases, no. Using listening as a guide to delamination is a sure way to get into trouble. Visual inspection is the only reliable method. Banana peel for instance only makes audible "burrs" in the very early stages when it is still somewhat close to the mylar, and even then it rarely does it. Once they come off a few inches they no longer interact with the mylar so from that point they almost can't make a wrong sound. Mid panel delamination, which happens at more advanced stages (maggies "rot" from the ends and until air can get in under there the middle usually stays OK) can happen and when it does it is usually a real noise maker. Since it is still held at both ends the wire stays in contact with the mylar and it will rattle and buzz. (like a kazoo) You will find that certain things in certain pieces of music causes the buzz, and will do so every time. Tweeter wires by comparison will sound shrill when off. It's a God awful sound and there's no mistaking it. If you hear tweeter shrill stop playing them immediately and get them fixed. The more you let them vibrate like that the greater your chance of fatigue and breakage.
Information about repairing them yourself with my method can be found on the audio asylum tweaks page. If you have questions, email me.